by Susan Pope
Hockey
posters—two walls’ worth. A row of ball caps slung on hooks. The requisite
electronics—TV, computer, smartphone. Dishes caked with dried food. And over
every inch of floor space, camping gear, some with price tags still attached.
Perched
on the bed in my fifteen-year-old grandson Cason’s bedroom, I watch him pack.
Tomorrow we leave for a raft trip, on a river we’ve never seen with people
we’ve never before met. He’s had five months to get ready. His mom—my
daughter—has quit nagging. He could have recruited his grandpa, my husband, to
help. But he knows that Papa—the name Cason calls him—would just say you’ve got the list, check it off, pack it
up. That leaves me, the organizer, explainer, and most of all, the soft
touch.
I miss
talking with Cason. We used to have moments of conversation in the car, on the
way to hockey practice, when his sister and parents weren’t around. Little
things: How he hated math. Liked his new hockey team. Hoped to catch a king
salmon this summer. Now he rides with his buddies who drive, so the two of us
rarely speak except in passing.
Cason
asked for the trip. Not this trip specifically, but any river trip. I’m not
sure why. “Sounds like fun,” is all he said when I asked.
His
family—my daughter’s—does not camp or fish or hike. “Roughing it” is a cabin
with running water on a lake surrounded by all the mechanized toys an American
family could desire. To Cason and his pickup-driving, four-wheeling,
dirt-biking friends, my husband Jim and I are the quaint old bird watchers,
nature lovers, greenies.
But
something made him curious, made him want to find out for himself if our
stories were true—the river journeys that changed our lives, the adventures,
mishaps, near disasters. Maybe it was the passion in our voices or the faraway
looks in our eyes as we sat around a family dinner while Cason half-listened to
us reminisce about running rapids through the Grand Canyon or dodging ice on an
Arctic river. Maybe he just wanted a way to impress his friends. Whatever his
reasons, here was this boy turning sixteen asking to spend time with his
grandparents—on a river, no less.
As his
life is opening up, our lives are narrowing down. We have this brief moment in
time when the dreams of the old and the young intersect, while Jim and I are
still hardy enough in mind and body to give him this gift. Of course, we said
yes.
Pen
poised to mark off items as he packs them, I read from the gear list.
First
aid kit. He unzips the small nylon bag with the Cabela’s tag still on it.
Band-aides, gauze, alcohol swab, tweezers, eye drops, Neosporin ointment.
Check.
Socks.
Two pair.
Check.
Bandana.
“Why
do I need one?” He asks.
“To
keep the sun off your neck, wipe the sweat off your face. We’re going into the
desert in summer.”
“I’ve got one, but you won’t like it,” he
says.
“What’s
not to like about a bandana?”
He
ducks into his closet and retrieves a neatly folded blue and red piece of
cloth. With a flip of his wrist he opens it out. It’s a Confederate flag.
“Not
appropriate. Not anywhere.” I’m about to launch into a lecture and history
lesson when I notice the half-smile on his face. He’s baiting me. Of course I
won’t approve. He knows that. I remember doing this with my father, but not
until I had left home and was in college. It’s called breaking away.
What I
can’t stand is Cason’s sullen, sarcastic, and disrespectful side. Screaming and
door slamming are easier for me to handle than silence or outright refusal to
help with something so simple as carrying groceries up the steps.
Yet
just a few weeks ago, at a Father’s Day barbeque, he was the perfect son and
grandson, serving food, cleaning up, smiling. Which person will he be when
we’re out in the wilds without his parents as the enforcers?
As for
me, I’ve taken a silent vow to be the warm, relaxed grandmother who lets Cason
experience the river in his own way, enjoying the terrain and our companions,
taking responsibility for himself. No nagging, no hovering, no treating him
like the four-year-old he sometimes seems to be.
But I
draw a line at the Confederate flag. “Dump it,” I say. “If you don’t have
another, I’ve got an extra.”
Cason
shrugs, then drops the bandana back in his closet. We return to the last few
items on the packing list. He starts pulling knives out of drawers, off his
desk, from his closet. “I’m not sure which ones to take.”
“No
knives on the list.”
“But
I’ve got to take one.”
He
lays them out on the bed. A small stainless-steel pocket knife, a bigger one
with a bone handle, a sleek silver one that when he hits a button pops out a
long, menacing blade. We used to call it that a switchblade, the kind used by
gang members and criminals in the movies I watched as a kid.
“What
are you doing with so many knives?”
“I
collect them. I buy them with my own money.”
I’ve
known this kid all his life—changed his diapers, cradled him when he was sick,
comforted him when he was hurt—and these are the tools he shows me to prove
he’s grown up. Inhaling slowly, I hit the pause on my internal alarm and point
to the plain silver knife on the bed, the kind that unfolds into a pocket tool
kit—knife, screw driver, pliers, everything you could need to repair anything.
“Take that one.”
He
slips the knife into a small nylon bag with his first aid kit and resumes
packing from the list. Broad-brimmed hat, camping towel, long sleeve shirt.
With each item he grills me. “Why do I need this?”
I
should be more patient, relishing this rare opportunity for conversation, but
there’s only so much you can explain about a raft trip through the desert
Southwest to someone who’s never been there. Besides, I have to get home to my
own packing.
“Trust
me,” I say. “If it’s on the list, you need it.”
***
1:00 a.m.,
Vernal, Utah. In our motel room, a pale blue light radiates from the next bed.
Cason’s face is aglow with flashing images from his cell phone screen.
“Cason,” I whisper. “Shut that thing off.”
A grunt. Covers rustling. The flashing glow shifts from one
side of the bed to the other.
“We
have to get up early.”
Another
grunt.
Beside
me, my husband kicks the covers, mumbles, and turns over.
No
electronics on the river. No cell phone coverage there, so that’s our deal.
Cason said he was fine with that. Later, I’ll find out he’s loaded his phone
with an entire season of Grey’s Anatomy and brought a solar charger.
I want
Cason to find life more compelling than images on his screen. I want this trip
to be successful, memorable, even life-changing for him. I want him to fall in
love with rivers, canyons, the desert, a world beyond.
I
believe one journey can change a person’s life. The Grand Canyon changed mine.
I was fresh out of college, traveling with my then-husband, backpacking with
cheap equipment and ill-fitting shoes. We descended from the rim in February to
two nights of camping in single-digit temperatures, hiking the trail beside the
river, then trekking ten miles back up, icy trail beneath our feet, stars
scattered extravagantly across the ink-black sky. Every step was agony but also
triumph. For two Alaskan kids on their first traverse of the United States, the
world opened up, the map of the country becoming more than just abstract shapes
on the pages of our social studies books. More than that, I discovered a person
could strike out into unknown territory for no reason other than to find out
what the rest of the world looks like.
Sluggish
here at our put-in, the Yampa River, which straddles Utah and Colorado, will
gather speed until it merges with the swifter, bigger Green. At the end of the
trip, we’ll run a long string of rapids as the Green rushes to join the
Colorado.
Helmets
on, life jackets zipped and buckled, paddles raised, the two men I love most in
the world are poised to shove off into the brown water on this first day of our
journey. Grandpa and grandson. They’ve never kayaked together, and Cason has
never floated a river. Yet without hesitation, he slips into the inflatable
double kayak in front of Jim. A few moments of circling, drifting, bickering,
swearing, and they float away. I’ll see them—hopefully—at our first camp.
This is what I wanted, grandpa and grandson working
together, sharing an adventure. As I snap their picture, I’m proud but also a
bit jealous. They’re off without me.
I find
an empty space on one of the blue rubber rafts and hop in. Together, we are
twenty-two guests and six guides in a flotilla of six rowing rafts, one paddle
raft, one double kayak and three single kayaks, all traveling at different
speeds but never out of sight of each other. With the exception of our guides
and two sisters ages thirteen and ten, everyone in the group but Cason is over
fifty.
In
early evening, we dock our boats on a hard-packed river bank. Jim and Cason—wet
but intact—have managed to propel themselves successfully down the river.
Together with our group, we haul the rafts and kayaks up on shore and tether
them, then form fire lines to unload gear—folding tables, chairs, stoves, pots,
pans, dishes, coolers of food, and waterproof bags containing tents, sleeping
bags, and personal gear. A pattern we will repeat at each new camp on our five
days along the river.
When
the boats have been emptied, Deja, our trip leader, yells, “Campers: Set up
your tents.”
We
each grab our two waterproof bags and scurry to find shady camp spots. After
surveying our options, Jim picks out a flat space big enough to pitch two tents
and far enough away from any snoring neighbor. Working together, we three
assemble the tents we’ve rented from the guiding company. When we’ve mastered
the mechanics of poles and pegs and our two identical tents are pitched within
a few feet of each other, Cason throws his gear into his tent, then stands
beside me while I pull out clean clothes to replace my smudged and sweaty ones.
I hold back a barrage of questions I want to ask—about the river, the guides,
our fellow travelers, and most of all about whether he’s having fun.
“What
do we do now?” he asks.
I’m
not sure what to say. The options seem obvious. “Sit, watch the water, swim,
take a nap, go for a walk, take pictures,” I tell him. “I’m going to wash up in
the river.”
He
wanders off to sit by himself in the crescent of canvas chairs facing the
river. I stifle an impulse to rush over and sit beside him so he doesn’t feel
lonely. This is the empty space I wanted him to experience.
Day
two. Cason tries out his skills in the paddle raft with some of the seasoned
river runners in our group while Jim and I split up into separate rowing rafts.
Our journey takes us through narrow canyons, sweeping meadows, abandoned
ranches, and old outlaw hideouts. We tie up in early afternoon and make camp on
a floodplain at a curve in the river.
When
we’ve pitched our tents, the group scatters to find patches of shade, awaiting
a hike that will start when the heat of the day has passed. An hour later, we
fill our water bottles and pull on day packs.
Cason
remains in his canvass camp chair in the shade. “Hiking is boring,” he’s
declared repeatedly whenever I’ve invited him to join me for a walk at home.
The truth is that hockey has made him a sprinter, not an endurance athlete.
Bross,
our wiry, twenty-something guide, will lead the hike. With his rumpled brown
hair, big sunglasses and gray hoody, he could be one of Cason’s high school
buddies. “You coming?” he asks Cason.
“I
don’t know.”
“Sure
you are. Get going.”
Bross
grabs a pack, tucks in a first aid kit and a bag of granola bars, slings a jug
with extra water over his shoulder, and starts walking.
Cason
jumps up, fills his water bottle, and hurries to catch up with Bross.
The
trail that begins behind our camp switchbacks up the canyon wall. At the top,
we’ve been promised a vista of the river, where we’ve traveled and where we’re
headed. As our group of twenty snakes up the hill, Jim dallies to take
pictures, while I fall behind trying to spot birds with my binoculars. Cason
takes the lead with Bross.
At a
fork in the trail some forty-five minutes into our climb, Bross and Cason pause
in the shade of some thorny bushes while we stragglers catch up. I sip from my
half-empty water bottle, feeling light-headed. Even now, in late afternoon, the
air feels no cooler than when we made camp. Alaskans, we’re not used to this
desert heat. I worry that Cason’s not drinking enough water.
As I
weigh whether to express my concern, Bross articulates it. “Drink water,” he
commands, and Cason obliges with a big swig out of his red bottle.
From
here the trail is not as steep, but now we labor in soft sand, so the way is no
easier. Where we reach solid rock, the trail levels off, ending abruptly at the
canyon rim. I peer over the edge at the brown river curving gently below,
bright yellow pods of our tents spread out along the bank. I’m dizzy—the heat,
the height, the edge—so I step back while others pose for pictures against a
backdrop of unobstructed sky. I take pictures of the guides, the other hikers,
and Cason, slightly apart from the group, at the rim’s edge, smiling back at me
in his red Oklahoma Sooners tee shirt, blue ball cap with American flag on the
front, red water bottle in hand.
While
I fill my bottle with the extra water Bross has carried all this way, Cason
wanders off. When I turn back, he is sitting by himself on an overhanging
ledge, feet dangling into oblivion, gazing over the canyon. My brain yells get back, stay away from the edge, you’ll
fall off, while my stomach flips and lurches in its own panic dance.
Even
if I yelled, he’s too far away to hear my pleas, so I motion for him to get
back, but he doesn’t see me or pretends not to. I wave again. He lies back on
the flat rock and stares at the cloudless sky. In my mind, the ledge cracks,
gives way, and his body hurtles to the valley floor.
I turn
away. He’s showing off, testing his limits, feeling the power of his own body.
When I
turn back, my husband is approaching the ledge. He’s talking some sense into
Cason, I think. But no, they’re both leaning over to watch something below the
precipice. I gesture at the two of them, but they pretend not to see.
I rush
to Bross and point to the two crazy guys on the brink. Bross shakes his head
and waves them back. Moving slowly, Cason pulls in his feet, takes a swig from
his water bottle, leans over for a final look, then rises and rejoins us. Jim
follows.
***
Day
three. I join five other women in the paddle raft with Travis, one of the
guides. We’re at his command, relying on his well-timed directions and expert
rudder skills to pivot us from lethal boulders and rubber-piercing logs. The
afternoon heat beats down on my bare legs. Even though slathered in sunscreen,
they feel as if they’ve been basted in olive oil and roasted in the oven.
Whenever we have a few seconds’ break in paddling, I unzip the mesh bag
strapped to the pontoon in front of me and gulp water from the bottle within,
only to be put back to work by Travis’ sometimes frantic orders to forward left, right, back paddle, stop.
In my
peripheral vision, a shape drifts past. It’s a big rowing raft with Cason at
the oars. Bross stands behind him, ready to avert a disaster if necessary.
Cason flashes a quick smile and continues rowing. I grab my camera from its
waterproof case and snap his picture. Broad-brimmed hat, orange-framed mirrored
sunglasses, faded red life jacket, blue tee shirt, yellow and blue and orange
gear bags lashed behind him. Facing forward, he’s leaning into the oars,
propelling his raft through the riffles.
How
different we are. My life has been careful, measured as I’ve mustered the
courage to take risks, unsure in my body, while Cason is confident, competent,
a risk-taker. In another culture, he’d have harpooned his first whale by now,
shot his first seal, killed his first caribou. Instead he’s here, learning to
master the art of reading a river.
Later,
as we sit next to each other watching the river at sunset, Cason says, “I wish
my family could be here.”
“Your
sister hates bugs and your parents don’t like to camp. They’d hate it.”
I
catch myself before blathering on, realizing I’ve cut off a chance to find out
what the trip means to him, and to say what it means to me.
“You’d like to share this with them,” is what
I finally blurt out.
“Yeah.”
Day
four. The Yampa, the last undammed tributary of the Colorado, has merged with
the broader, more powerful Green River. We’re camped near a wide, grassy valley
just past Jones Hole Creek, a clear, swift stream that empties into the Green.
Cason
is now Bross’ sidekick. “Guide in training,” Bross calls him. Bross has
mastered the unique set of skills essential to a good river guide—river running,
local knowledge, yarn-telling, bravado, and above all, patience. Not a bad role
model for a teenage boy.
We
ready ourselves to hike a trail that follows the creek. The guides promise
opportunities to cool off with plunges into the cascades and to view rock
pictographs and petroglyphs left by the Freemont people who lived in this
country long before the first Spanish explorers.
Bross
will stay behind, on dinner duty with Deja and Bob, another guide. I call out
to Cason who has slipped into his tent to take a nap.
A
muffled moan.
I call
again.
“Uh,
uh,” he mumbles.
I want
him to have this experience. But I want him to choose it.
We
leave without him. When we return hours later, bringing stories of
still-vibrant drawings by ancient people, immersions in icy water, and
encounters with snakes, Cason greets us with a slight nod from a chair in the
shade. Hair combed, clothes changed, he looks fresh and clean, his red shirt
drying on a tree limb above his tent.
“Bross
and I floated down the river,” he says.
The
logistics elude me. After floating the river, they’d have to paddle back
upstream to return to camp. “How’d you manage that?”
“We hiked up to the creek, put on our helmets
and life jackets, floated down the creek, then down the river and back to
camp.”
Slowly,
I comprehend their feat, undertaken without boats. Frigid water, bouncing over
boulders, dodging sweepers, dog-paddling like mad to reach camp before being
swept down the mighty Green. “Wow, that’s quite a trick.”
What I
don’t say is What were you thinking? What
was Bross thinking? I wanted Cason to discover a sense of himself on this
trip, but letting go is harder than I imagined.
It’s
our last night of camping. Exhausted hikers leave the campfire one by one,
saying goodnight before they slip into bed.
Cason
sticks with the guides at the fire. I take toothbrush and water bottle down to
the river. On the way back to the tent, I contemplate nudging Cason out of the
circle, allowing the guides their night to kick back and drink a few beers,
sparing Cason the inevitable foul language and stupid tourist stories. But, as
I catch his face in the glow of the fire, he looks older, like a taller, leaner
version of someone I once knew. So I duck into my tent, slip into my sleeping
bag next to Jim, and leave Cason and the river crew laughing around the
fire.
The
next day we face the biggest whitewater on the river. One long intense stretch
that must be scouted, pondered over, strategized by the guides. They’ve done it
before, many times. But each run is different. The river never stays the same.
I
decide to ride with Garth. Measured, cautious, conservative, college math
teacher in his other life. Jim chooses a different raft, while Cason of course
rides with Bross, who takes the most aggressive run through the rapids,
drenching everyone in his boat. When we reunite at the take-out, Cason’s
grinning, eyes wide, wet clothes clinging to his body.
“That was so much fun. I want to do that.”
“That was so much fun. I want to do that.”
“Do
what?”
“Be a
river guide.”
This is what I wanted: For him to fall in love with rivers,
to find a world beyond cell phones, hockey, and pick-up trucks. And for me: To
step aside and let him.
Back
at the Microtel in Vernal, I awake to a familiar blue glow in the bed next to
me. I get up and gently tug the cell phone from Cason’s sleeping grasp. He
jerks awake and snatches it back. Doctors and nurses flicker on the screen.
He’s back to Grey’s Anatomy.
“Cason, we have to get up early.”
“I don’t care.”
I climb back in bed and think how nothing has changed. And
how everything has.
Susan
Pope
writes nonfiction from her home in Anchorage, Alaska. Her work has appeared in Pilgrimage, Damselfly Press, The Southeast
Review Online, Cirque: A Literary
Journal of the Pacific Rim, Hippocampus, Under the Gum Tree, among others. Her writing reflects
intimate connections to home and family in Alaska as well as a restless
wandering in faraway places. Throughout her career as counselor, teacher, and
researcher, she has continued to pursue her first true love, writing. Her essay entitled, “Canyon,” which appeared
in Bluestem, was nominated for a Pushcart Prize.