by Shayla Love
A Dodge Man with a
Mercedes Grill
Pia Lindstrom had a
great pair of legs, but that wasn’t what Walter Backerman remembers about her.
After an interview with Walter’s
father, Al, she looked into the Channel 4 WCBC-TV camera and said, “It’s a
shame that after 55 years of continuous service, that Mr. Backerman senior will
be the last seltzer man in the family. His young son Walter is enrolled to
start law school in the fall.” She flashed a smile. “It’s a shame. There are
too many lawyers out there and too few good seltzer men.”
That was 40 years ago. Turns out, the world
was spared another lawyer.
I met Walter on the corner of 7th Avenue and 22nd street after
he dropped off his son, Joey, at school a couple blocks away. His seltzer truck
is an advertisement, photo album and scrapbook, all at the same time. The
sliding doors are printed with images of seltzer bottles from television, 19th
century France, and recycling bins.
Like other aspects
of his life, this truck started one way and became another. This is a 1995
Dodge Sprinter, but you’d never know it, since Walter fixed a Mercedes grill to the
front. Walter is good at adding a little glamour to everyday things. Like a
Dodge, or a blue collar delivery service job.
The front seat of
his truck is filthy. It looks like a space where coffee has been spilled and a
lot of life has been lived. The wall behind the driver’s seat is covered with
pictures of celebrities. There are autographed head shots and faded news
clippings. Like all good photos, they carry a thousand words per picture, per
star, of where and when Walter met them, and how they became his friend. A
poster from “The View,” is signed by the whole cast.
“Barbara Walters is like a faucet,” Walter said, as he stirred
sugar into his coffee. “You know what the faucet does? It runs hot and cold,
you follow me? My wife said to me, let’s be real. This woman
could pick up the phone and call the president. How important is Walter the
Seltzer Man in the scheme of things?”
Pretty important. Walter might be the most connected man this
side of Hudson Street. His stories jump from news anchors, to movie stars, to
investment bankers, to that time he tried to give Mayor Bloomberg an antique
seltzer bottle—the kind he delivers everyday—and almost got arrested. When
detectives showed up at his Queens home later that day he said, “You guys came
all the way from city hall, you’re lookin’ for
a big story and all you found was Walter the Seltzer Man. Are you relieved or
disappointed?”
He gave bottles to Whoopi Goldberg and to Alec Baldwin. He knows
where any movie star lives in Manhattan because he’s been inside their
homes. He’s enamored by the stars, and pins their names on his stories
like award ribbons. We were driving south on 6th Avenue, past the old Air
America station, when Walter blurted, “Rachel Maddow, I’m mad at her. I still
like her, but I’m mad at her.”
After Air America
went out of business and Maddow moved to MSNBC, Walter never got his bottles
back from her. This is one of the few things you can do to get on his bad side.
Walter is protective over
his bottles. They are his livelihood, his passion and his personal
collectibles. Most of them are as old as he his, 60. Some are older. Still, he
doesn’t charge deposits; he operates on trust.
When a bottle comes into your home, it’s a loan of faith
directly from the seltzer man, to you. This big man with big stories, has a big
heart.
“From time to time, a bottle breaks,” Walter said. “I got a kid,
last stop on 23rd. One time, he took all my bottles and threw them down the
incinerator. A case of blue bottles. He said it was fun. I told the old guy who
takes care of him, 30 dollars,”—when the real value was hundreds. “I did it
because I felt for the guy.”
Walter’s green eyes are tired
from fatigue, but they light up a little each time he begins a new anecdote. I
ask him about other difficult clients he’s had, partly because
I’m curious, partly because I see how much joy it brings him.
Walter tells me he delivered to Calvin Klein’s mother.
“At the beginning, Flo
Klein was nasty,” Walter said. “I turned her on a dime.” Soon she was giving
him a bottle of cologne for every holiday, be it birthday, Christmas or
Chanukah. It isn’t his style, but he valued the gesture. Mostly, he thinks it’s
important to be able to make a friend out of an enemy.
We reached our first stop; Peter Cooper village on 1st Avenue
and 20th street.
“What’s up baby? I’m delivering
seltzer.”
A guard walked out of a gatehouse. “To who?”
“What do you mean to who? I’m the seltzer man, you
never heard of me?”
Walter had been to Peter Cooper Village that morning. But he
was coming back for an older woman.
“She’s a nice old lady, she wanted to sleep,” Walter said. We had
come from the west side, and Walter had made an unnecessary loop in morning
rush hour to return.
We parked on a service road. Walter pushed down on the tops of
the bottles in short jabs, to test the pressure. He was listening and looking
for the spurts of seltzer that come out and the sounds of the hiss. He won’t
give out a bottle he isn’t happy with.
Walter delivers in a modern
vehicle that runs on gasoline. His radio plays top 40 hits and he had a coffee
that morning from 7/11. But when he slides open that door and puts that wooden
crate on his shoulder, he may as well be climbing out of a horse and buggy.
There’s something beautiful about an anachronism walking down 1st Avenue; he
takes the whole street along with him.
The Fountain’s Head
A seltzer delivery
man used to be as common as a milk delivery man. Each seltzer man had his own
route that he inherited from a father or an uncle. They got their seltzer from
seltzer fillers in Brooklyn, Long Island, or the Bronx. There used to be
hundreds of fillers, and even more seltzer men. Now, the number of seltzer men
can be counted on one hand. Only one finger is needed for the fillers. Gomberg
Seltzer, run by Kenny Gomberg, third-generation seltzer man, is the only place
to fill an old, pressurized bottle in New York City.
It’s hard to imagine a time when these
antiquated bottles were as present in every home as a stick of butter or a
frying pan. Soda water was invented in 1802 in Dublin, and made its way into
restaurants and businesses, eventually being mixed with syrups and liquor. The
individual “soda siphon,” a version of which Walter sells today, brought
seltzer into personal residences. A Harper’s magazine article from 1872
recommends that the summer seltzer drinker enjoy it ice cold, and speaks
favorably of adding lemon. Hot seltzer, usually chocolate or coffee flavored,
was not as popular, and has not stood the taste test of time.
The production of bottled sparkling
water, busier professional lifestyles, and large soda corporations caused this
business to lose its fizz over the last 50 years. I asked Kenny what his
grandfather would think, if he knew that he was the last seltzer filler. Kenny
couldn’t
come up with an answer, it was that unfathomable. Like Walter and Al,
his is a family affair. His son, Alex, just joined the legacy.
Compared to the loud trucks and bustle of the
city, the nondescript factory building is a kind of oasis. The bottles are filled with New York
City tap water and carbon dioxide. The valve is sealed immediately, so that no
pressure leaks out. A bottle can retain it’s carbonation for years. But these
are active bottles, and they all visit the Gombergs on a weekly basis. It’s a cycle that’s been happening at Gomberg Seltzer
since 1953.
After another hiss and the spray of overflowing carbonation, a
hard working bottle gets a little rest before it’s sent out again with Walter.
We left Peter Cooper and
drove west, along 9th street and stopped in front of a brownstone right before
3rd Avenue. Walter and I walked into a beautiful townhouse with a Japanese
style garden in the back. An elderly woman came to the door.
“I’m glad you’re
here, glad you’re in town,” Walter said. “Where are the kids? School?”
“No, they’re at a museum today,” she said.
“That’s nice. You got beautiful grandkids, both of them.” Walter put
the seltzer down and admired renovations that had been done in the kitchen.
“Myles is getting real handsome. It’s nice that they’ve got you to come visit. I’m real glad you’re
here today, don’t worry about paying. I’ll catch up, I always
catch up.”
“Don’t work too hard!”
We left. He didn’t
get paid for that delivery. He said he’s not worried.
“The seltzer man always gets paid.”
Kryptonite
“In the South Bronx in
the 1980s, a black man fired a shot gun into the air.”
I am riveted, and
so is the deli man making our sandwiches. Walter continues his story.
“I is Sweet George,” the man yelled, in front of a seltzer filling factory. “Now I
runs this shop!” This show of power
would help protect Sweet George’s property, money and delivery men. One of those men was a young
Walter Backerman. They had to fill at odd hours to have enough time to make all
their stops. Walter, and his assistant Frankie, would carry two loaded guns
with them at all times to ward off thugs and robbers.
When Walter made his route in tough neighborhoods, he would call
a meeting of all his helpers. He said, “Anybody comes to stick you up, just
call my name. I’ll shoot em in the back, I’ll flip ‘em
over to make it legal, and I’ll pull my money outta there.”
It’s hard for me to
believe these stories, as I watch Walter chat at the register and tell the
cashier to have a nice day. He’s never hurt anyone in his life. He told every old lady we’d
seen on the route how nice they looked. He will buy anyone a coffee. When his
assistant, Frankie, got old and senile, Walter couldn’t bear to fire him.
Frankie was so run-down that when he stood on the corner holding a coffee cup,
a passerby threw a quarter in, thinking he was homeless.
“You don’t understand, I didn’t want him,” Walter
said. “I pay him good money. I just can’t cut him loose. When
someone gives you that devotion, I can’t cut ‘em loose.”
Walter showed me a
stack of wooden crates an 80 year old customer used to make, six a week. At
that time, Walter didn’t need them. But he kept buying them because he didn’t
want to discourage an old man who needed the money.
“I’d rather give the guy 30 dollars for the boxes and keep him
working,” he said. “Cause I want someone to keep me working.”
That’s
what it comes down to these days. Kenny, Alex and Walter just keep going. And
by doing so, they support each other.
“Looks like I’m
not working today, cause I’m just bullshitting with you,” he said. We were parked in the
West Village and had delivered to two more apartments and a restaurant. “I’m
tired. Some days you get up and you’re all perky, and
some, the week just gets to you.”
We ate our sandwiches
and Walter took the opportunity to show me around the memorabilia-laden truck.
He pointed to a photo of a young man with long curly hair and white bell
bottoms.
“That’s me when I was my son’s age.” Walter said. “I was there helping
my father. I was going to start law school, going to go that summer. Then, my
father got emphysema and he almost died. So I started helping him. I was
supposed to help for six months. Take a leave, go back. It just was never the
time.”
When Walter talks
about his father, all the celebrities and name-dropping disappears. Al
Backerman becomes the only famous man in the world. I wondered earlier how a
young man could give up law school and the promise of a comfortable life. It
was for the chance to be with the biggest star of all. Al died in 1998 from
lung cancer.
I picked up a bottle at random. It was heavy and the glass was
thick all around. The top said, “Al Backerman 1952.”
“That’s the most beautiful bottle in my whole route,” Walter boomed. “Al Backerman, that’s my father. And the date, 1952. You know what’s
important about that bottle? That’s when I was born. So I was in diapers and that bottle was
making money for the family.”
I’m starting to realize that the
seltzer route, at every stage, is an homage to heritage. An homage to the past,
from the present. To fathers, from their sons. The reusing of the bottles, and
the repetition of the route, echoes its respect to tradition.
We drove up to our last delivery, in Alphabet
City. It was my last stop too.
Walter gives me some things to take with me, before I go. He
gives me a worn tour guide of Manhattan based on film shoots and celebrity
homes, an open invitation to knock anytime on the door of his truck, and a
photo of him and an old woman wearing a Superman shirt. It’s his favorite
celebrity he’s met.
“That’s Noel Neil,” he said. “In the
original adventures of Superman that I used to watch when I came home from
school, she was Lois Lane. She’s 92 years old. And I still like her.”
I looked at the photo, which was
carefully labelled with a name and date in blue ink.
Noel Neil is not the superhero in this photo, I thought.
Walter has
no cape, no a body suit. He is a just man with trouble paying the bills, two
kids and wife on disability. He is a man who has an injured shoulder, a long
delivery route, 70 pound crates of seltzer to carry up three floor walk ups,
and no heir to his throne. You could say that he has super strength.
Walter
has no regrets about giving up law school to work with his dad. He didn’t lose much, he only gained. He
became tied to a lineage that goes back to his grandfather, who drove a
horse-driven seltzer buggy in 1919. It’s a place for men to teach lessons, and Walter received
a full share of them.
“They used to say if bullshit was electricity, Al Backerman
would put Con Edison out of business,” Walter said.
Our sandwiches were
eaten, the seltzer was delivered, and all that was left was for Walter to teach
me one of his father’s lessons. “People don’t always need hear the truth.
When my Aunt Stella at 65 was dying of stomach cancer, my father went down,
took a week off from the routes and he went down to say goodbye to his sister.
At the end, she was frail, falling apart, nothing to her, she put lipstick on.
She had a couple days more to live and my father said, ‘You know Stella, I have
a crazy feeling you’re gonna get better cause you look great.’
And she
said, ‘Oh Al, I just put some lipstick on. But do you think? Maybe you’re
right. Oh, thank you.’ And that’s the last time my father saw his sister. She died right after
that.
“In 1998, my son Jonathan was three months old and Joey was a
year and four months old. My father had lung cancer. I remember looking out the
window of the hospital and knowing that my father was never going to make it
down to the street. So I took my sons, Jonathan in my hand and Joey in my arms.
And I wanted—even though they would never remember—I wanted them to see their
grandfather.
“My father had a morphine drip, but for some reason he got up. He
took the mask off and he saw the kids and he said, ‘Walter, what are you crazy?
What are you bringing kids to a hospital for? All they got here is sick people,
you’re crazy, you shouldn’t have brought them
here.’ And I said, ‘You know Al, I think you’re getting your energy
back. I think you’re gonna be perfect, and you’re gonna be all right,
and I miss you on the route. I want you outta here.’ My father looked at
me and he said, ‘All I do is dream about the route. I wish I could rest
already.’”
I hopped out of Walter the Seltzer Man’s truck, looking up at him from the
sidewalk. I wonder if he will ever get to rest. Walter took my hand in his and
couldn’t
resist giving me one more piece of advice. “The most important thing is just
being a human being, and saying the right thing for a person who needs it at
the time. And that is my last story for today.”
Shayla Love is a journalist and storyteller living
in New York. She is a reporter for the Norwood
News and has been published at BKLYNR.com,
Gothamist, and iMediaEthics.