by Charles Bergman
In my mind, travel and
forgetting have always been linked. I’ve
lived much of my life as if I could outrun memory, or, if I got good and lost,
erase the past. Though I never ran away
as a teen-ager, I’ve sometimes thought of myself as an adult run-away. The farther away, the more remote, the
better. Never mind that I know
rationally I can’t really leave anything behind. It hasn’t stopped me from trying. It’s a core illusion, a mistaken belief
that’s been hard to eradicate. Maybe I’m
typical of many Americans in this way, in love with cars and frequent flyer
miles and the open road.
That’s why I was startled
when my sister called me in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I had only just arrived earlier that morning,
and was standing in line at a money exchange, travel-weary and jet-lagged. The last thing I had expected was a call from
home, much less from the past.
“Mom died last night,”
Carole said, getting right to the point.
“A stroke.”
Jolting news, but no real surprise. Our mom was well into her eighties, trailing
a long medical history. She wore a
pacemaker for her heart and had long seemed frail and failing. But she also had a wide streak of the
hypochondriac, in all honestly, and loved the attention of doctors. And that made it hard to know exactly what
was going on with her medical condition.
Plus, she had a huge lexicon of medical terms—from her long career as a
medical stenographer—which made her an expert at stoking all her worries about
her health.
Recently, though, she had found
a renewed zest for life. We had moved
her out of her subsidized apartment in Seattle, where she had lived alone, and
into an “assisted-living” home. It was
low-income, nothing fancy. But she loved
it, with all the people and a whole new social life. She even took up
watercolor painting. Carole and I began
to think she might have several more years.
Her declining and
ambiguous health had given us lots of time to prepare in practical ways for
this moment, arranging cremation and paperwork.
What surprised me though was how emotionally unprepared I was for this
moment.
I considered returning home, but quickly decided
that that wasn’t really possible or necessary.
Buenos Aires was just a stop-over on our way much farther south—to
Tierra del Fuego and, beyond that, Antarctica.
My wife, Susan, and I were traveling with twenty undergraduate students
for the month of January. Without me,
the students couldn’t go on. Plus, Carole
and I decided we could easily schedule our mom’s memorial service for a time
right after I got back.
I asked our local guide to
take the class on a tour of Buenos Aires, while Susan and I headed back to the
hotel to talk—to remember. Memories and
scenes I’d worked hard to put behind me quickly came back. My
mom’s adoration of doctors had escalated during my childhood to an addiction to
prescription drugs. She had several bouts
of electroshock therapy, which was confusing and disturbing to me as a boy. Terrible fights with my father, loud and bordering
on violence, exploded into an ugly divorce by my early teenage years. Once single, mom was gone every weekend,
hanging out in cocktail lounges, becoming an alcoholic.
My sister and I? Left at home on our own. I hated imagining what our mom was doing in
bars and lounges, and grew increasingly angry.
These memories are still painful, even as I write this.
When I left for college, I
didn’t just go off to school. I tried to
leave my mom and my childhood behind—my first attempt at leaving and forgetting. Not only did I think I could reinvent myself,
I tried to become mother to myself. At
key times in my life, when things got tough, I hit the road. I grew expert at leaving.
Charles and his mother, Ellie |
You don’t have to travel
to create emotional distance. Mom felt
the “it” between us, but I don’t know if she understood it. I do know it hurt her in her later years.
As Susan and I talked in
the hotel, deeper memories and lost images also began to surface. I had forgotten how much, as a small boy, I
adored my mother. She was full of life
and had a great sense of humor. Her
oldest child and only son, I loved to make her laugh, to entertain her. Embarrassing to admit, I did routines for
her—even singing for her— and she affectionately called me her “little
clown.” I remembered a blue and green
dress she had. When she wore it, I
thought she was the most beautiful woman ever.
Once, in seventh grade, I faked being sick to stay home from school and
try to bake a birthday cake for her. It
was a disaster, but mom doted on me for the effort, which was all I really
wanted.
In a darkened hotel room,
I found myself revisiting some of the darker corners of my life. That early love for my mom was a casualty of
my later anger toward her. And it
explained why her nights in cocktail lounges when I was a young teen hurt so
much, felt like a betrayal. It was sad, but it also felt strangely satisfying
to feel that early love for my mom again, before it proved dangerous and
painful.
Next morning, we left for Tierra
del Fuego with the class. The students
had heard the news and were gracious and sweet.
I thought I’d done some good emotional work and was ready move on,
leaving mom behind once more. But she
was waiting for me in the far south.
If the Andes Mountains are the spine
of South America, then Tierra del Fuego is the continent’s tailbone. Ushuaia calls itself the southernmost city in
the world, “fin del mundo,” the end
of the world. Of course, there’s a lot
more world south of Ushuaia, but the idea captures the frontier scruffiness the
place—gaping holes in the sidewalks, rusting buildings, relentless gray
skies.
Landing in the plane here can be its
own minor adventure, dropping through snowy peaks and skidding to a stop at the
end of a runway that sticks far out into the windy Beagle Channel. We emerged from the small airport to find our
guide, Marcelo de la Cruz, waiting for us.
“It’s terrible about your mother,” he
said immediately, wrapping me in a huge, sympathetic hug. The news had traveled ahead of us south.
Marcelo de la Cruz |
Marcelo is also a recognized expert on
the birds of Tierra del Fuego. People
come from around the world to find the region’s unique species with him.
“I got something special for you,” he
said in heavily-accented Fuegian Spanish.
“Tomorrow night we’ll find an owl.”
“The owl will help you,”
he continued, referring to the loss of my mom.
“You must let yourself be brushed by the wings of the owl. You must be wrapped in the wings of the
owl. The owl will take care of you in
this moment.”
Marcelo knows I love owls. We’ve birded many times together in Tierra
del Fuego, and with him I’ve seen many of the great birds of the far south—Magellanic
penguins, Magellanic woodpeckers, Austral pygmy owls, and more. This time he wanted to show me a
rufous-legged owl, or “la lechuza,” a
handsome, strictly-nocturnal, and hard-to-find “specialty” of the region.
My traveling is not only
about forgetting, of course. It’s also a
search, and often the object of the search is a pretext for something I don’t
fully understand until I encounter it. I very much wanted to see this owl.
The next night Marcelo and I raced down
dirt roads through Tierra del Fuego National Park in his small Renault. He drives as he speaks, fast and sometimes careening
toward recklessness. We stopped several
times, listening intently for owls in the dark forest. Nothing.
Then, about 2 a.m., Marcelo heard something and plunged down a trail.
By the time I caught up with him,
about 300 meters into the forest, Marcelo was standing in a small clearing beside
a huge beech tree.
“Shhhhh,” he whispered. “It’s here.”
Marcelo pointed his flashlight at the
fork in the tree, perhaps ten feet away.
A little owl stared unblinking into the beam. A quick glimpse, maybe ten seconds, and it
flew.
“It’s still here,” Marcelo said. “Above us.”
Directly overhead, the owl peered from
a thick branch. I strained my neck
backward to look up at it. About a foot
tall and heavily streaked, it peered left and right. I squeaked like a small mouse. The owl spun its round head, stared at me,
and clacked its beak. It was aloof but sharply
curious, sweet-face and big-eyed.
Rofous-legged Owl by Charles Bergman |
“How did you know that the owl was
there?” I asked Marcelo later, as we clattered back to Ushuaia, rocks clanging
off the undercarriage. I was impressed
that he had heard it from the road. I’m
experienced with owls, have found them all over the world, including all
nineteen species of North American owls.
But I hadn’t heard this owl at all.
“I will tell you how I find the
owl.” Marcelo waved his arms passionately
as he spoke. “I penetrate into the life
of the bird. I feel the owl in order to
see it and hear it. You must feel the
bird in order to find it.”
“Maybe I’m crazy,” Marcelo laughed, by
now almost yelling. “But people do not
know what’s possible in nature anymore. Now
you have been embraced by the wings of the owl.”
I loved the quasi-mystical connection
he asserted with the owl. He was not
being metaphorical. Marcelo is a
hard-headed ornithologist. He keeps
careful, scientific records of all the birds in Tierra del Fuego. But the owl is not just a biological being to
him, known intellectually by data and statistics and maps. It’s also a presence that he knows in his
gut, by feeling it. Still, for all my
sympathy for Marcelo’s views, it was not until I returned home a month later that
I felt the owl’s embrace.
When I got back from
Antarctica and Argentina, my sister and I organized a memorial service for our
mom at the assisted-living home where she had lived her final two years. A big, impressive crowd showed up to remember
her.
Every relationship consists of a
unique mixture of remembering and forgetting, and sitting on the fold-out
chairs in the chapel in the home, I found myself thinking that death gives us
our most intense, perhaps the ultimate, experience of both.
The chaplain at the home
called my mom by her nickname, Ellie. He
talked of her life in the home, focusing on one story from her painting class. I
knew she loved the painting class because she had shown me several of her
paintings. But this was the first time I
heard this particular story.
He said that my mom had wanted to paint
a picture of a photograph from one of my books, a photo I had taken. Her
idea was to paint the image and give it to me.
According to the chaplain, she tried over and over again to paint the
photograph, but she was never happy with her images. She never showed me anything.
“It was a photograph of an
owl,” the chaplain said.
At those words, I almost
wept, bending forward with my face in my hands.
I knew exactly which photograph, which owl, she had tried to paint. Immediately I remembered the owl that
appeared to Marcelo and me in Tierra del Fuego, just after my mom’s death.
Susan, my wife, was
sitting next to me at the service. She leaned toward me and said quietly, “The
owl in Tierra del Fuego was your mom.”
Susan has no doubt about
it. In that moment in the memorial
service, I believed it too with an overwhelming clarity of feeling.
All my traveling, and
there she was at the far end of the world.
Now, over a year later, I love to
recall that moment in the chapel. I’ve
told others the story of my mom and the owl, and many believe that my mom was
that owl. But I no longer feel that clear and immediate faith. I’m less certain about what happened. Who or what was that owl?
Without doubt, the
chaplain’s story added meaning to the owl and other experiences in Tierra del
Fuego, but I can’t pin it down. Often in
Tierra del Fuego and Antarctica, I felt animals were speaking to me, offering
consolations in languages that I don’t know, but which, like music, moved me
irresistibly. A pod of humpbacked whales, for example, was feeding amid a
wilderness of surreally-shaped icebergs along the Antarctic Peninsula,
surfacing over and over again within feet of our Zodiacs. They breathed in vaporous whooshes and their
breath drifted over us in misted murmurs from other worlds.
Humpback Whale by Charles Bergman |
The other feeling is gratitude. To Marcelo, who showed me the owl and
insisted that I be wrapped in its wings.
To the owl. When a wild creature
presents itself, reveals itself, it’s like a gift that nature makes to whatever
longing we carry with us inside. The owl
in the forest is now completely tangled up with my memory of my mother. And finally to my mom. One of the best things she ever gave me is
this last, ungiven gift.
Photos: All photographs are
by Charles Bergman.
Charles Bergman teaches English at Pacific Lutheran
University. He's the author of three books, including Wild Echoes:
Encounters with the Most Endangered Animals in North America. He's written
extensively on wildlife and animals, including the 2009 cover story in Smithsonian
magazine on wildlife trafficking in Latin America. He has a weak spot for
the Southern Hemisphere, has completed two Fulbright Fellowships in Latin
America, and has led four classes on study tours of Antarctica.